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| Boost Leak Tester |
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So, I had gotten the turbo setup installed, and was still not making any boost...VERY IRRITATING, as I'm sure you can imagine. I could hear the turbo spooling, but nothing happened. Thus, I concluded there must have been a leak somewhere in between the turbo inlet and the cylinders that was preventing the buildup of pressure in the intake track. What was needed was a method to pressurize the system, as if it were under boost, and to try and find out from whence the air was leaking. To do so, get all of the materials you see to the right: teflon tape, a PVC cap of some kind that fits very tightly into a coupler that also fits onto your turbo inlet, 2 hose clamps, a tappable brass plug that screws into the PVC cap, a valve stem, a tap with which to tap the brass fitting for the valve stem (check valve stem threading at hardware store before buying tap), and a drill to make a hole for the tap.
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The idea of this operation is to assemble what you see to the right. The first step is to take the PVC cap and screw into it the brass fitting. You'll need to wrap the threads of the fitting with teflon tape before installaion. Once these two are screwed together, drill a hole in the fitting for the tap, and tap the threads for the valve stem. Then, wrap the valve stem threads with teflon tape and screw it into the brass fitting. Make sure everything is screwed in VERY tightly. After the first three components are put together, clamp down one end of the coupler onto the PVC cap.
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The lat step is to go test the car for leaks. Clamp (or in my case SHOVE) the other end of the coupler onto the turbo inlet. Attach a bike tire pump to the end of the valve stem and start pumping to pressurize the system. If you pump for a couple minutes and don't feel much increase in resistance, what's happening is that the valve positions are in overlap, and the air is allowed to pass freely through the cylinders and out the exhaust. To remedy this problem, get into the car and crank the engine over, but only for a VERY, VERY SHORT TIME. Like one tenth of a second. Just *click* and the engine will turn over just enough to move the valves out of overlap. Then, proceed to pressurize the system, and have a friend get under the car and feel around all of the normal leaky areas: SILICONE COUPLERS, gaskets, old intercoolers, etc. Find the leak, seal it up, and get to boosting, bitches!
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