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| Turbo Installation |
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Alright, so FINALLY you have everything together, and after months of bullshit, it's finally time to get down to business and put this fucking turbo that's been sitting on your bedroom floor forever into the car. The easiest way of thinking about the procedure is in three parts: first, you replace the stock oil pan with a tapped one. Next, you install the turbo manifold, turbo, wastegate, and oiling system. Finally, you install the intercooler piping and injectors. Let's start with the oil pan. There aren't a shitload of pictures of the whole process because, as soon as we started working, I became dirtier than I've ever been in my entire life. Literally coated in oil and dirt. This is what I looked like when we were done. I got so fucking dirty at one point, I decided I had to represent TSN to the fullest. Check it out. Anyways, it's not sooooo bad. So whatever...on to the pan. First step is to jack the passenger side tire up and take it off. Make sure the car is on jackstands so you don't crush your dumb ass when you go yanking off the oil pan. Drain the oil out of the pan...duh. Now, remove (read: rip off) the plastic covering in the wheel well. You should now be able to see the crank pulley. Remove the serpentine belt using a 14mm wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt. When that is off, remove the crank pulley as described on the Crank Pulley page. It's on the Navigation Bar. When that is off, remove the dogbone mount you see there below the crank pulley as described in the Motor Mounts page. Then, in a new move you've never done before if you've been faithfully following along with the development of this site, remove the four bolts you see holding the braket from which you just removed the dogbone mount onto the frame of the car. It's shaped like a "U" and has, I believe 13mm bolts. After that's off, get under the car and remove the transmission brace something something whatever. I can't remember what it's called, but it looks kinda like an "X" and it has six 15mm bolts, if I remember correctly. After that's done with, you have to remove the flywheel cover, which is a really thin piece of black metal right under where the engine meets the transmission. There are a couple 10mm bolts holding it on. You'll know it's right piece because it covers the oil pan bolts on the driver's side. Anyways, when that's done, take ALLLLLLLLLL eleventybillion fucking 8mm bolts out of the oil pan. A couple of them are right next to the flywheel, and are in a weird spot, kinda recessed. You're gonna need one of those flexible angle ratchet type of things to get them off. Another great option is to get some kind of ratchet screwdriver tool that comes with a prehensile attachment. I just recently got one, and it's AWESOME. Whatever. After taking out allllll the bolts, either start prying the pan off using a screwdriver wedged in between the pan and the block, or do what I do: hit it with a rubber mallet until it comes off. Any way you can without smashing it to bits, get it off. Then, using a razor blade, scrape all the gasket shit off of both the block and the pan. Then, wipe out the oil residue from the pan and get a friend to tap the pan for the oil return line...if you're as luckyluckyass as I am....bitches!!! A couple notes about tapping the pan: First, MAKE SURE YOU'RE TAPPING THE PAN ON THE CORRECT SIDE!!! If you tap the pan on the wrong side, then your oil return line will be long and irritating. So just make sure it's right. It needs to be as HIIIIIGH up on the pan as physically possible, and it must be angled upwards. It is IMPERATIVE that the oil coming out of the turbo be allowed to freely and easily return to the pan solely by gravity, and that no pressure builds up in the oil return line. If it kinks, or if it's tapped below the level of the oil in the pan, or if the oil return line does anything except flow DOWNWARDS, then you'll be fucked. The oil seals in the turbo will not hold the pressure, oil will leak past, and the turbo will burn like hell and smoke up the place like crazy. That's bad, if you can't tell. So just do it right. Anyways, there's no need for crazy pressure fittings and whatnot. Just weld some 1/2" pipe to the pan and use some kind of big rubber line or whatever to flow the oil down. Just make sure it can take very high temperatures. Use the RTV that is made specifically for oil pan gaskets. It's the best shit.
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Aiights...now that the oil pan is back on, it's time to get the turbo hooked up. First step is to take off the exhaust manifold and A/C if you have it. This process is described on the Header page. After that's done with, bolt up the turbo manifold and oggle at its beauty. When you've stopped drooling, bolt up the turbo and wastegate to whatever flanges you have there. At this point, you should have already screwed the oil fittings into the turbo. If you haven't, do it now. You can find oil components for most turbos VERY easily on Ebay. Use at least -4AN steel braided line for the feed and at least -10AN or 1/2" pipe for the oil return. Make sure all oil fittings are either sealed with locktite or teflon tape. As far as the plumbing for the oil feed line, you have to get under the car and remove the oil galley plug that is two holes down from the oil pressure sender hole, which is furthest to the right if looking up from under the car at the back of the block. The galley plug can be removed using a hex wrench. However, be aware that you might need to use a small breaker bar or multiple wrenches for leverage, as it is stuck the FUCK up in that hole. Anywhoo, the threading of the hole is M10-16. So, go find an M10-16 to -4AN adapter and attach it to the end of the -4AN oil feed line you have.
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After everything is tightened down and the oil lines are good to go, it's time to deal with the piping and the fuel system. For right now, I'm using a very simple setup for fuel with 33# GM Quad4 injectors and an HKS AFR. Not a very good system, but it's relatively reliable and decently safe. Anyways, to get the new injectors in, the best way is to just remove the fuel rail. You MIGHT be able to swap injectors without removing the rail, but it's a bitch and I was only able to suceed after I had taken the injector clips off of the injectors the first time. Anyways, to remove the fuel rail, first remove the harnesses from the injectors. Then, if you want to relieve the fuel pressure, which is a good idea, take a screwdriver or something and depress the pin inside the schrader valve on the fuel line coming to the fuel rail. Alternatively, you can remove the fuel pump fuse and let the car run until it stops from lack of gas. I like that idea better. Also, remove the two 10mm bolts holding the throttle cable bracket onto the manifold, as well as the cable itself from the TB. After that's done, remove the three 10mm bolts holding the rail to the intake manifold. Also remove the one torx bolt, maybe a T25 or so, that is holding the FPR onto the fuel rail. Pull the FPR out of the rail and proceed to remove the bracket that holds down the fuel lines, below and to the side of the intake manifold. Now, you should be able to pull the fuel rail towards the back of the engine bay, and the injectors will pop out of the intake manifold along with the rail. If you don't have enough room to change the injectors by now, you'll have to unscrew the hardline from the fuel rail. It's a big 25mm nut and I think a 26 or 27mm nut. Anyway, once the rail is free, unclip the injector clips from the fuel rail by pushing them sideways along the rail away from the injectors, where they plug into the rail. After the clips are undone, the injectors should just pull out of the rail. Make sure each injector has a rubber O-ring still on each end after it's fully removed from the rail and manifold, as the rings can pop off and stay lodged in either the rail or manifold. If you have yet to find cheap injectors for the turbo system, take a look at the DSM Injectors page under the Turbo heading in the Navigation Bar. You can use the stock O-rings and a set of 1st gen DSM turbo 450cc injectors in the Saturn if you do it right, as described in that article. After you shove whatever new injectors you have back into the fuel rail (don't worry about reclipping the injector clips...they'll stay fine without them, I believe), do the process again backwards and reinstall all the fuel components.
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Finally, it's time to install the intercooler piping. There's not much to it, except to note that you MUST make SURE that the couplers connecting your pipes are VERY fucking tight. I had a leak in one of them...a TIIIIIINY ass leak..and made NO boost. In addition, as far as intercoolers go, there are a couple differences to note. First of all, the widest intercooler you should look into getting is in the 31-32" range. Any wider than that and you're gonna have a hell of a time routing the pipes. Also, if you can, get a bar and plate intercooler, as opposed to a tube and fin model. The bar and plate kind have a much higher efficiency. After the pipes are done, all that's left is to route up the vacuum system. Block the EGR with a plate, first of all. Then, for boost referenced accessories (wastegate, blow off valve, boost gauge, etc.), take out the PCV valve from the valve cover and off of the intake manifold. Run vacuum line from the manifold to the wastegate and use T fittings to supply vacuum for the rest of the accessories. You can also T off of the brake booster line, which attaches to the back of the intake manifold and is 1/2" in diameter. After you're all done (took Chris and I about 10 hours of straight labor), start 'er up and begin with the tuning. You can now pose GANGSTUH STYLEE in front of your sweet, non-bumpered turbo trashcan, as I am often found doing. Gotta love it.
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